He sat looking out to the morning sunrise as it pushed through the scattered clouds. He could see the sets of waves forming and rolling through. And with each he could see the choice wave to consider and what would be rubbish to be skipped.
There were a few boards out. Their riders perched high looking to the eastern horizon, they too watching, waiting and judging the moments as they came. In a loosely huddled group, respectfully staying a distance from each other. One or two in turn peel off to chance a wave.
He watched from his seat. Watching each attempt, silently encouraging each one, a smile coming to him when there was the one or two triumphant rides.
The sun had climbed higher through the clouds now. Not as a blinding yellow orb, just a glaring whitish object hidden from view by a veil of thin grey cloud. There was an occasional shaft of light leading down to the water’s surface. But that was out beyond the surfers and out beyond the break. Far out where the water was deep and darkened by shadows, where the reflected slate-coloured clouds contrasted with the now pale horizon light.
A shower of rain was moving up from the south and would soon engulf the scene. But for now, in these moments, what he could see were occasional patches of sparkling light on the ocean’s surface where the sun was successful with a scattering of stretched out fingers.
What he knew is he needed to restore himself and take away some optimism from this scene. And the words he had heard somewhere ‘This too shall pass’ came to his mind. That in any time of gloom, deepness of doubt or depression there is always a glimmer.
He wanted to believe. Believe that he would be out there again. Talking to himself to assurance himself that it would happen. That he would once more enjoy the simple pleasure of sitting on a board, feeling the ocean swell and the rise of each passing wave. It had been a long wait and was dragging on.
It was time to move on, the showers were approaching and as they did he could feel those deeper shadows he was trying to resist seeming to grow again.
He picked up the crutches and pulled himself up. Would that day come? Freedom from his plaster anchor and bracing. Would it really come and he would be free from the lingering pain!
Once more he looked out to those fast-disappearing patches of light, those signs of chance he had hoped were messages of opportunity and hope, now fading and seeming to echo the creeping doubts.
He looked down to the now slightly blurred scene of waves rolling in, when suddenly time stopped.
Bursting through a grey blue wall, a dolphin leapt out to ride a wave from its crest then down through it curving wall. Skimming, breaking right and then the left, then back to the right. Following the break and always just ahead of the curling white water. It was easily a scene of pure joy he was witnessing, as this ocean lord expressed the bliss of just being in the moment, right now.
Stunned he watched until everything was gone, the amazing spectacle now just a memory. For all he would know it was still ongoing behind the curtain of rain. What remained was the joy he felt rising through him and with it the excitement and clear reality. He could believe something yet unseen was to come. Just take in the moments. And he recognised what a blessing it had been to see the surfer.